Climbing the peak Kusum Kanguru in the Everest region is considered the most difficult peak for climbing among the trekking peaks in Nepal. Climbing this peak is technically very challenging on all possible routes, Kusum Kanguru is an impressive triple-summit rock and ice peak which forms the border between the Dudh Koshi to the south and Hinku Valley to the north. This climb is suggested only for those who already have good alpine mountaineering experience. The elevation of this peak is 6367m and there are two approaches to this climb.
Max. Altitude: 6367 m
Duration: 24 days
Trek Days: 20 days
Type of trek: Camping/Lodge
The approach to the South East Face is from the Hinku valley. From Lukla we follow the trekking trail of Everest base camp up to Manjo and head east, then south for a two-day hike to base camp. The ascent route to the main summit is up the South East Face. With a base camp at 4360m, two or three high camps are required to complete the climb.
The North Ridge is approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. From base camp ascend steep grass and screed and finally a ramp leading to the ridge proper.